The steep, narrow, and muddy path did not dampen the spirits of a group of locals riding dirt bikes, their tires gripped by modified chains. Driven by sheer curiosity, they pushed forward, undeterred even after being thrown off and wiping out several times.
Their goal was singular: to see and witness firsthand the stories of the beauty of Lemutu Waterfall, located in Pagar Dewa Village, Tanjung Agung District, Muara Enim Regency, South Sumatra Province. ‘It was quite exhausting,’ said the District Head of Tanjung Agung, Drs. Rahmat Noviar, M.Si., who led the expedition group last mid-April.
He was accompanied by the Lawang Kidul Nature Lovers Forum (Formalaki) and village officials from the Tanjung Agung district area. Setting out from the district center, they arrived at Pagar Dewa Village early in the morning.
The road to Lemutu Waterfall in Muara Enim, South Sumatra, is broken and grueling. After a brief rest and a quick cup of coffee, the group of about 30 people immediately resumed their journey.
Some rode dirt bikes, while others chose to go on foot. Interestingly, there was almost no difference in travel time. Due to the heavy terrain, the hikers and the motorcyclists arrived at Talang Jerun settlement at nearly the same time, covering a distance of 7 kilometers in approximately two hours.
A Relentless Challenge Along the Way “It was at this settlement that they left their dirt bikes behind, continuing the rest of the journey on foot toward the waterfall, located about 500 meters from the village.
However, before they could truly immerse themselves in the atmosphere of the waterfall, the group first had to cross a 15-meter bamboo bridge constructed by the local residents.
Whew! That 7-kilometer hike was worth every step. We’ve finally made it. It’s truly beautiful,’ exclaimed one member of the group as soon as they stepped onto a boulder at the edge of the falls.
The thunderous roar of the waterfall, cascading from a height of about 20 meters (known as Cughup Panjang), greeted their arrival.
At Lemutu Waterfall in Tanjung Agung, Muara Enim, South Sumatra, the exhaustion from the grueling journey vanished instantly. The group was truly mesmerized, and they couldn’t wait to soak their bodies in the water. This was further enhanced by the surrounding natural scenery, which remains lush, green, and well-preserved.
Occasionally, various species of fish can even be seen swimming around the waterfall, including spiny eels (ikan tilan), snakeheads (ikan gabus), and other aquatic creatures. Locally, the residents know this area as the Lemutu River.”
Along this river, there are approximately five waterfalls, or what the locals call cughup. These include Cughup Kukup, Cughup Tengah, Cughup Panjang, Cughup Keluang, and Cughup Pandak. Additionally, there is one more waterfall on the Jelangit River known as Cughup Jelangit, whose waters also flow into the Lemutu River. However, out of these six waterfalls, the one that captures the most attention is the one known as Cughup Tengah.
This waterfall appears as a twin cascade, split in two. Between them, there is a ledge that resembles a large crater, which can be climbed. According to the locals, this waterfall is exceptionally beautiful and still pristine, as very few people have visited it.”
Mesmerizing but Lacking Adequate Facilities
Unfortunately, there are almost no adequate facilities at any of the waterfall locations. The only amenities available are a 3×3 meter changing area enclosed by black plastic sheets and two small huts (dangau) measuring approximately 4×4 meters with black tarpaulin roofs, which are used for resting or storing belongings.
To reach this specific waterfall, visitors must climb the left side of Cughup Panjang for about 100 meters. The path is steep, with an incline ranging from 45 to 55 degrees.
The bamboo bridge leading to Lemutu Waterfall in Tanjung Agung, Muara Enim, South Sumatra. Meanwhile, the third-level waterfall, known as Cughup Kukup, which sits above Cughup Tengah, can be reached by climbing a near-vertical 90-degree cliff for about 200 meters.”
Visitors must exercise extreme caution, as the path is not only slippery and steep but also quite high. The only way to assist the climb is by gripping onto the vegetation along the cliffside, such as bamboo stalks and wild rattan vines that hang abundantly from the hillsides.”
At Cughup Kukup, the atmosphere is slightly different from the previous two falls. This waterfall consists of three tiers, each about five meters high, flanked by massive boulders twice the size of an adult elephant. However, the first tier is not aligned with the second and third; it is positioned to the side, making it hidden from a front-facing view.
At Cughup Kukup, the aura feels significantly stronger, distinct from both Cughup Tengah and Cughup Panjang.”
Local Taboos at the Site “There is one specific taboo (pamali) for all visitors to the Lemutu Waterfalls: they are strictly forbidden from speaking the Palembang language while at the location.
It is highly recommended to speak Indonesian or any language other than the Palembang dialect. Why? According to local belief, if this taboo is broken, heavy rain will fall, making the already difficult terrain even more treacherous—the ground becomes muddy, extremely slippery, and bogged down.”
Overall, reaching this waterfall requires excellent physical fitness. Although an access road exists, its condition is severely damaged, leaving hiking or riding a motorcycle for 1 to 2 hours from Pagar Dewa Village as the only viable options.
Hospitality and Local Logistics “Despite the challenges, the people of Tanjung Agung, particularly in Pagar Dewa, are more than willing to serve as guides. They are exceptionally welcoming to visitors entering their village. Travelers will pass through local settlements before reaching Lemutu Waterfall. At the Pagar Dewa checkpoint, modified motorcycle taxis (ojek) are available to take you to the site for a fee of IDR 50,000 to IDR 100,000, depending on negotiations.”
Visitors from out of town can safely park their cars or motorcycles at residents’ homes in Pagar Dewa for a fee of IDR 5,000 to IDR 10,000. Simple stalls selling food and drinks are available in the village, as well as in Talang Jerun, where locals also sell fresh produce and provide modest rest areas and prayer rooms (musholla). At Talang Jerun, all vehicles must stop as the terrain becomes impassable for motorcycles, requiring a final trek on foot.
Preparation and Governance “As a precaution, visitors are advised to bring sufficient supplies from home, including proper footwear and basic medicine. Despite its beauty, Lemutu Waterfall suffers from a lack of government attention. Local community leaders, such as Marpudin (41), believe that with strong political will and infrastructure investment—such as roads and electricity—Lemutu could become a new tourism icon for Muara Enim, rivaling the famous Bedegung Waterfall.”
Celvin L. Tobing, Chairman of the Lawang Kidul Nature Lovers Forum (Formalaki), echoes this sentiment. ‘We have visited dozens of waterfalls, but Lemutu has a unique charm. Finding six waterfalls in one close proximity is rare,’ he said. To help promote the site, his organization frequently guides tourists and organizes camping trips.
Travel Advice from the District Head “The District Head of Tanjung Agung, Drs. Rahmat Noviar, M.Si., emphasizes the need for professional management to boost Regional Original Income (PAD). For now, the site is managed independently by the villagers. ‘My advice: start your journey early in the morning and aim to head back by 2:00 PM or 3:00 PM. Since the location is still dense forest, it is safer to travel in groups rather than alone,’ Rahmat added.
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